Saturday 30 June 2012

Banana magic 2

Sometimes you just want something sweet, hot, quick and simple. Mom had the answer: banana or apple custard.

Just make up half a pint of custard, and either slice a banana or grate an eating apple into it. Leave to stand until lukewarm, when the custard will have absorbed the flavour of the fruit. Just lovely!

When I went to senior school, they did something they called banana custard, but it was very different. Firstly it was a custard tart - pastry base, set custard, sliced banana. Secondly it was cold. It had its merits, sure, but what would have been good was if the custard had some of the flavour of the banana. So I suggested this to the dinner ladies. One wasn't sure if they could do anything about it, but another one winked and said "We'll see what we can do luv".

They actually did warm the tart up next time it was served, but the flavour of the banana still didn't come through enough. The weather was now warming up, and I resigned myself to not having my treat at school. Next time I had it at school though, there was a bit of a surprise: piped cream on top of the tart. Actually this was an improvement.

I can't say whether they kept experimenting with the dish because at the start of the next school year I started to bring in sandwiches for lunch. I suppose now they might serve Banoffee Pie, but I'd actually quite like to revisit a banana custard tart with the toffee sauce maybe.


Banana magic 1

Sometimes for lunch Mom would make me a banana sandwich. Two slices of bread, buttered of course, a banana thinly sliced over the bottom one and lightly sugared.

When I left home and went to university, I experimented quite a lot with food, but I always went back to the good old banana sandwich. I was actually quite pleased to see the wholefood stall in the Students Union selling something labelled as "banana sandwich", but it looked nothing like what Mom used to make! Still I had a go with it. Wholemeal bread, medium sliced: something that didn't taste like butter: and no sugar. I was not impressed and went for a chat with Tulio to see what he'd put in it.

The spread was some ersatz sort of organic vegetarian marge, and I reasoned that was what the odd taste was. I also told him I didn't think it was sweet enough. "Hmm" he said, stroked his goatee, and asked me to come back tomorrow when he'd have something special for me.

I duly returned the day after. Tulio's face lit up. "I have your something special Chris! You must eat it here though." So I stood beside the stall and tucked in. Wow! What a difference. Nutty, gooey, banana-y, in short - yummy. The magic ingredient? Smooth peanut butter. Never heard of it. Didn't have it again - until a few weeks ago.

I had treated myself to a bunch of bananas which were reduced in the supermarket. While making my lunch, I noticed in the cupboard a jar of crunchy peanut butter. Hmm. I wonder....?

Oh maaaan! Bliss! My mind went back to Tulio some 35 years earlier. How could I have forgotten such an amazing creation so easily? Shame on me!


Friday 29 June 2012

Bunny boiling

Dad being of farming stock, he would come home sometimes with a newspaper wrapped package with a slight pink tinge to one end. I would be told to play outside, or play in my bedroom, but on no account was I to go in the kitchen until I was told I could.

A couple of hours later the most delicious smell would come from the kitchen. "Rabbit Stew in the name of the law" said Dad, no doubt pleased with his misquote of a mishearing. Anyway rabbit stew it was, and this is how it's made.

If you can buy your rabbit ready jointed then do so. Sometimes I get mine from my local market, and they are hanging up still in fur. The butcher takes them behind and sorts them out for me, although I do know how to undress a rabbit, having sneaked a peek at one stage!

Soak the jointed rabbit in acidulated water (that is, water with some vinegar added: about 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 pint water) for about an hour. Drain, rinse well, pat dry with kitchen paper.

Now roll the joints in seasoned flour and brown in butter (or oil and butter, or oil, or dripping, depending on what's available). Add a chopped onion and some sliced carrots, top the pan up with stock to cover and season. Cover and simmer for an hour and a half, or two hours (it's quite forgiving really). You could add shredded cabbage or cauliflower florets at this point. Serve with dumplings, or in a large Yorkshire pudding.

This will serve up to 6 people very well, especially if you add potatoes to the stew.

Many years later I had a couple of friends who bought a pub in Sheffield. They moved in and my husband and I helped them redecorate the pub over a period of time. One Saturday evening, our reward for painting the woodwork was rabbit stew in a Yorkshire pudding. Well the smell permeated the whole pub and she got asked to serve this dish to the customers. So every Saturday evening at about 6 pm, rabbit stew and Yorkshire pudding was served.

Thursday 28 June 2012

Mom's signature dish

Every great chef has a signature dish, right? Well my Mom was no different. I have her recipe passed down to me and this is how it goes.

"Take a pound of fry with kel. Put the kel in a dish of warm water to soak. Take the fry and boil it for about half an hour with an onion. Put it through the mincer into a bowl.

Soak enough bread until soft, squeeze it out into a nut and add to the bowl. Add sage and pennyroyal if you have it, with lots of salt and pepper. Add enough of the cooking water to make it stick together. Cut the kel into squares, wrap handfuls of the mix in the kel and put in a roasting tin. Pour the cooking water round the faggots and put the lid on the tin. Roast for 30 - 45 mins in a slow to medium oven. Serve with mushy pays, gravy and crusty bread."

OK let's translate!

You need a pound of mixed offal - liver and heart - from a pig. Ask the butcher to give you the diaphragm too. Not the lights (lungs), they make the mix bitter.

You also need about half a pound of breadcrumbs, made from stale white bread. If  you haven't made the bread into crumbs, don't worry: soak the bread until it's soft, then squeeze the excess water out. The bread will form a ball in your hands..

Put the diaphragm into soak in warm water.  This makes it easier to handle.

Now boil the offal with a quartered onion for about half an hour. Take the offal and onion out and pass them through a food mincer. (A food processor will do but be careful, you want chunks not paste.) Add the breadcrumbs, a pinch of dried sage and thyme, quite a lot of salt and pepper, and enough of the cooking water to make the mix bind together. Take handfuls of the mix and form into balls. Cut the kel into squares large enough to wrap round the balls and wrap each ball. Put the balls into a roasting tin with a lid, and pour the rest of the cooking water round them. Put the lid on and roast at about Gas 4/180 deg C for 30 - 45 mins.

Traditionally you serve faggots with mushy peas, which come from a tin these days but if you get dried peas, follow the instructions on the packet. Turn the cooking liquor into gravy with gravy granules (if you must!).

This food is the nectar of the gods. It has life-giving properties. When my Nan was run over by a car, she wouldn't eat for weeks and we thought we were losing her, but Mom's home made faggots went down a treat and she lived for another 7 years.

So let's hear it for the Black Country's own FAGGOTS AND PAYS!



Wednesday 27 June 2012

This blog came about as a result of a panicky text from an ex-student of mine. "Help I have no gravy powder what do I do?" So Sue, you don't know it but it's all your fault!

The premise behind the blog is that people today don't know or were never taught how to feed themselves or their family cheaply. I'm not going to make any promises about "feed your family on £5 a week" although I've done that. Nor am I going to make any rash claims that such a recipe will cost you 30p a portion. What I will say is that these recipes are cheap, tasty and filling. I'll try and debunk how to handle things that are unfamiliar to you and make preparing these foods as easy as I can.

As time goes by, I'll ask for your ideas too. Let's help each other. God knows we need help these days!

Stew

How boring is stew!

Well it's boiled meat and veg, innit.

No actually, that's a white stew. White stews mean you don't brown the meat beforehand. Brown stews are where the ingredients are browned in oil, butter or both before the liquid is added and the stew is cooked.

I should explain that Mom only ever cooked white stews, and I found them boring for donkey's years. However, I got into stews a few years ago when I found myself hankering after one, and I've never looked back. I'll give you instructions for both white and brown stew below.

White stew of lamb
Take some stewing lamb. You don't need much and the quantity depends on whether you're using lamb with bones in such as neck, or not. About half a pound per person should do it. Put it in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and skim the scum off the top. Put a lid on the pan and simmer the meat for an hour. Add some leeks cut up small, potatoes, carrots and swedes or turnips or parsnips, and a good handful of pearl barley, a sprig of thyme and a stick of celery. Simmer for another hour. Check for seasoning and serve in soup bowls.

Brown stew of beef
Take some stewing beef. I like shin, but shoulder is good too. Again, about 8 oz per person. Cut up into 1 inch slices and dust in flour, to which you've added salt, pepper and a pinch of mustard powder if you have it. Melt some dripping (or use a tablespoon of oil) in a large saucepan and brown the cubes of beef. When they are brown on all sides, remove to a plate. Now cut up an onion into small dice, crush a clove of garlic and chop a carrot. Add those to the plate and stir round until they are brown too. Return the beef and its juices to the bowl. Now add enough beef stock, or beer, or red wine if you're really posh to cover the beef and bring to the boil. Cook very slowly on the hob for 2 hours, or cook in the oven at Gas 3/150C for 2 hours. You can, if you have stuff handy, add things like tomato puree, Hendersons Relish/Worcester Sauce or soy sauce to enrich the flavour. It doesn't really need it but it's nice to ring the changes.

Dumplings
And a stew isn't really complete without dumplings. Mom used to make her dumplings with margarine, which may explain why I didn't like stew and dumplings when I was at home. They are much better made with suet, and you can use vegetarian suet for them. Take 4 oz SR flour, 2 oz suet, a pinch of salt, some pepper, and mix them in a bowl. Run a little water in the bowl and mix it all together until it comes into a ball. Drop the mix in spoonfuls into the stew. If you're doing the stew in the oven, put the lid back on or leave it off for a crispy crust. If on the hob, put the lid back on and boil the stew for 10 - 20 minutes, by which time the dumplings should be soft and fluffy. Serve immediately. Dumplings don't wait, people do!

My stew got the mother-in-law seal of approval at Christmas. I didn't know she was going to have Boxing Day evening meal with us, and I was given 3 hours notice. So I decided instead of the lamb curry I'd anticipated, to make a stew because I knew the amount of stew I make would feed us all. "I haven't had stew for ages Chris" she said as she cleared her plate and went back for more!

Tuesday 26 June 2012

Why you should always have a roast on Sundays

I know it's a lot of money to spend in one go, but not to have a Sunday roast is, in my view, a false economy. You see, one roast will provide more than one meal and can be stretched to last most of the week. The nursery rhyme "Solomon Grundy" may be about "salamagundi", a medieval dish which started with a roast meal and continued in various forms during the week.

The roast which will go furthest is a chicken, especially if the meat is carved and served in slices rather than portions. It's still my favourite roast dinner with all the trimmings: roast taties, roast parsnips, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower or leeks and - of course - stuffing, which has to be parsley and thyme. And delicious gravy. These days I make it with gravy granules. More of that later! When you're preparing the cabbage or cauliflower, don't throw the stalks away. Save them for the soup.

The day after, strip the carcase of the remaining meat as much as you can, and put the bones into a large saucepan with an onion, a carrot, a couple of bayleaves and some peppercorns, and some thyme stalks if you have them. Cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer for 2 hours or so. Strain and you have chicken stock. You will never need a chicken stock cube again!

The meat from the carcase can make sandwiches, or you can combine it with a sauce or curry it. Making a casserole with extra veg such as mushrooms and sweetcorn is a great way to make this meat go further.

In the winter I make soup with the stock. If you make enough stock you can freeze what's left over. Anyway, you chop the stalks from the greens you had with the roast, an onion, carrot, celery, leeks - quantities depend on what you've got. Sweat them off in a large pan, in melted butter, ghee, oil, or just half an inch of water. When they've softened, add as much stock as you need to feed the number of people you have.

Now Mom's clever bit. Add a handful of either red lentils or pearl barley to the soup, or maybe even dried pasta or couscous. This will add body to the soup and make it feed more people. Cook the soup for about 45 minutes before adding what remains of the chicken meat. You can use a potato masher to blend the soup together, or a stick blender to produce a smoother soup. Or you can leave it chunky and call it "Farmhouse" if you like! Serve this soup with crusty bread.

Another handy tip is, if you know you won't be in a position to make stock from the carcase, freeze it until you have the time. You can add it to another carcase, or to a ham hock if you like. If I end up throwing a carcase in the bin without making stock from it I feel so guilty.

Trifle

I guess most people's idea of a trifle is sponge cake, fruit, custard, cream and decorations, and if I'm honest Mom's trifles fit that bill. But we're talking about the 1960s here! So in honour of Mom's trifle I wrote a poem. I'm going to try and do it in a monospaced font to see if it looks like it should:

|Hundreds and thousands|
|Tinned condensed cream|
\Birds homemade custard/
 \Tinned fruit & jelly/
  \Sponge cake in rum/
   |YUM YUM YUM YUM!|


To start with, Mom would go to Firkins the bakers on her way home from work (or late in the day if she wasn't working) and get yesterday's sponge cake which was sold off cheap. (A good tip. I wonder if Greggs do something similar?) Then she'd split the cakes horizontally and pour dark rum, sherry, apricot brandy or whatever was left over from Christmas (but NEVER Dad's Drambuie!) over them. She would make up a jelly using jelly cubes, hot water and the juice from a tin of fruit. When it was partly set she'd stir the fruit into the jelly and pour it on top of the sponge cake. The custard was always Bird's custard - making this quantity of custard from scratch would involve 6 eggs which could be better used elsewhere. No matter: Bird's custard is the best. When it was colder than the jelly, that went on top. The whole thing then went into the fridge. 

Whipped cream, eh? Not on your nelly. A tin of Ideal condensed cream, shaken for hours to within an inch of its life, then opened and spooned on top. It has a taste all of its own. That was covered with "hundreds and thousands", those little coloured strands of sugar. Sometimes we could afford silver dragees,or sugared almonds, but not often. A real treat was glace cherries, which would be chopped into pieces rather than left whole.

And so back into the fridge, to be served at celebrations or if friends of Dad's came round for tea. (I'm not sure Mom was allowed friends round. I wasn't.) 

At some time in the 1960s, Birds themselves decided to produce boxes of trifle ingredients, which we tried but still went back to the original. If you want to you can try it for yourself. I don't make trifle now, I'm the only one in the house that eats it, and I'm fat enough thank you! But if I ever get the chance, this is what I shall make.

Monday 25 June 2012

Bread and butter

Now I could write a book on the role of bread and butter in our family!

As previously noted, it was thin sliced bread for weekday sandwiches and proper bread for the weekends. We had our bread delivered by Barry the Breadman, who worked for Wonderloaf bakeries. He had a range of breads: thin, medium and thick sliced, always white never brown or wholemeal, wrapped in greaseproof paper. Uncut tin loaves, or bloomers, or my family's favourite Cottage loaves, or Coburg (round with a cross cut in the top): crusty cobs which went well with crumbed ham as a treat!

Today we have sandwiches as a snack, for lunch or supper. But we had thinly sliced bread with every meal. It was important to have a plate with sliced bread and butter on the tea table, it was always there at my Nan's house (just in case I got famished between meals). But the most bizarre place for bread and butter to turn up was with a trifle!

I'll write more on what exactly went into this "trifle" later. But the bread and butter served two purposes. One was to fill any remaining holes in the stomach after the main course. The other was, of course, to mop up the delicious trifle juices!

My Dad always took great pride in making sure we were well provided for: even if that meant that all that was in the larder was a proper crusty loaf, and all that was in the fridge was good Danish tub butter, that was enough for a feast. (Except when all that was left was Ifit.)

What to do with the stock from the hock or trotter

The cooking liquid from the hock or trotter is known as "stock". This is good stuff! Save it. Put it in a bowl with some clingfilm over it and put it into the fridge. You can freeze it too.

The best thing to do with this is make a soup. My favourite soups using this stock are:

Pea and Ham and
Lentil and Sausage

To make pea and ham soup, take 8oz of dried peas and soak them for 24 hours with some bicarbonate of soda. Drain and rinse them. Peel and finely chop an onion, a couple of carrots and some celery or a leek if you have it. Melt some butter, or add some oil or lard or dripping to a large saucepan. If you're watching the calories or have no fat in the house, put about half an inch of water in the bottom. Add the chopped veg and fry off until they're transparent. Now add the rinsed and drained peas and about 3 pints of stock, and bring to the boil. Turn down to a simmer and cook for another 2 - 3 hours. Chop some of the meat from the hock or trotter and add to the pan. This soup will serve 6. (Actually it serves me and hubby for 2 meals but then we're gluttons!)

Lentil and Sausage soup is even easier. Take 8oz of green or brown lentils and rinse them under the cold tap in a sieve. Fry some chopped veg as in the pea soup recipe, add the lentils and the stock and cook for about an hour. I think this soup tastes best with some frankfurters (hot dog sausages) chopped into 1 inch sections and added 5 minutes before you serve it.

Note I haven't told you to add any salt or pepper. This is because I want you to taste it to see if it needs it. Always be guided by your taste buds. If you've used a ham hock there may well be enough salt in the stock anyway.

Serve with crusty bread if you have it. If you're using thin sliced bread, toast it and cut into triangles. There's posh!

My favourite meal when I was aged 6

My favourite meal when I was aged 6 wasn't fish fingers and chips, nor was it alphabetti spaghetti (which didn't exist 50 years ago!), nor was it a McDisgusting burger - they weren't in the UK 50 years ago!

No, it was the glorious Pig's Trotter!

Mom could buy a trotter for 3d (three old pennies) from the butcher and one would feed a hungry little girl for tea, with some stew veg cooked in the broth. I used to love sucking the little bones. The skin tasted so good!

When you buy the trotter, ask the butcher to split it down the middle. At home, put it in a bowl and pour a kettle of boiling water over it. This will make sure there are no nasties there. The butcher washes all the muck and grot off before the pig is cut up anyway.

Put it into a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil. Scum will rise to the top, and you have to skim it off with a spoon. Throw it away. To be on the safe side you can also throw this water away and put more into the pan. Add an onion halved, a couple of carrots chopped into 4, and some bayleaves and peppercorns if you have them. Bring back to the boil and simmer for about 3 hours.

That's it: the trotter is cooked. Don't pour the cooking liquid away, just use a slotted spoon to take it out of the pan. Now you could put it into a soup dish and sit and eat it. Or another thing you could do is take the meat off the bones and put the meat into a bowl. Pour some of the stock from the pot over it, and you have a basic brawn. When it goes cold, have it in sandwiches.

If you don't like the idea of eating a pig's foot, then use something called a "hock". This is the part of the leg just up from the pig's ankle. It's a bit like a lamb shank, and we all know how delicious they are! My favourite way of serving a hock is with butter beans and cabbage. You can get ham hocks, which are cured. They are even more tasty. (Morrisons sell them for £2. They are so delicious!)

By the way, if you think the £2 is expensive, you will be feeding more than one person for more than one meal with this ingredient. You've only used one pot, one ring. You haven't had to put the whole oven on. It's always worth spending more on something that goes further. Besides which it's the price of a burger and fries which feeds one person for a snack. And you've cooked it yourself, which gives you a bit of a glow!


Why I don't use pressure cookers

In the pressure cooker was a leg of lamb, some veg and some water. Mom put it on the stove top, put the lid on and put the timer on. Unfortunately she misread the instructions and thought you cooked it for longer than she should.

BANG!

And I don't just mean Bang.

I mean the sort of Bang that threatened to demolish the flat and its neighbours!

Lamb and veg all over the kitchen - walls, ceiling, floor...

And nothing else for tea.

So we had to have the staple food of my childhood, and my mother's and no doubt her mother's before her - "Bread and Ifit".

The pressure cooker, however, was not consigned to the dustbin: it had cost far too much! The base was still perfectly serviceable, and Dad used to use it to boil stuff up in. (You really don't want to know what stuff that was. It wasn't edible.)


Breakfast

When I heard kids were going to school without eating breakfast I was amazed. At the age of 7 I was making my own breakfast. I'd put some thin sliced bread in the toaster, push down the lever, take the bread when it popped up, spread it with butter and go to school, eating on the way. However, sometimes my parents would make my breakfast for me.

Depending on what was being advertised, I either had a boiled egg or porridge.

Boiled eggs, despite propaganda to the contrary, are quite healthy. So the yolk contains cholesterol, eh? Well the brain is 90% cholesterol. In fact, cholesterol is one of the building blocks of cells, and so eggs are the most amazing food for growing children!

When I was 9 my mom had her thyroid out, and spent the best part of a year in hospital. To start with, I stayed with my Auntie Jen and Uncle Arthur, but when it became clear Mom wasn't coming home anytime soon, I had to go home and basically fend for myself. This was because Dad worked shifts: either nights, when I wasn't allowed to do hardly anything in case I woke him, days which in fact were 6 - 2, or afternoons. That meant I didn't see my father for days on end. But Dad used to make my meals and leave them for me with instructions.

Breakfast, made by Dad, was boiled egg sandwiches. He'd use the doorstep bread - well, Mom wasn't there to shout at him! and boil the eggs for 7 minutes, then stick the pan under the cold tap for a while. He'd thickly butter the bread and slice the eggs on to the bread, then put them in a sandwich bag and leave them in the fridge for me. If I didn't fancy eating them first thing I would put them in my school bag and eat them at break. Oh eggy smells!

Breakfast made by Mom was porridge. This is so cheap even today. You can get a bag of porridge oats enough for breakfast for a week for about 50p even now. It's flexible and versatile too, as well as being nutritious and good for your heart.

If you're really, really poor like we were once, you make it with water. Maybe you can sprinkle some sugar on top of it when you serve it. When times were better we used milk to make it, sprinkle with sugar and pour some extra milk around it. When I left home and was fending for myself I used to put a dollop of jam in the middle. If you're into honey or golden syrup, I'm sure you could use those.

If you can't face the faff of making porridge first thing in the morning - and you need a really good pan or a microwave, in which case there really is no excuse - then put it together the night before. In the morning you warm it up. Couldn't be easier.

Just don't get me started on Ready Brek. We got some of that one winter. God it was dreadful. Tasted like cardboard. Haven't dared try it since!



Bread and Ifit

Sometimes I'd come back from playing out starving hungry and wanting some food.

"You'll spoil your tea" Mom used to say. "Here, have some bread and ifit."

When I got old I worked out that "you'll spoil your tea" was code for "I haven't got anything to give you" and "bread and ifit" was also code for "all we've got in the house is bread".

So what was this mythical "ifit"?

If it were butter, or if it were jam, or if it were cheese... you get the picture.

But this wasn't the cotton wool type bread we get these days, it was proper crusty bread with real flavour.

I remember when sliced bread came in, and Mother had to try it out. She soon developed the way to handle sliced bread: thin sliced for sandwiches, and proper crusty bread for weekends or a treat.

Thin sliced bread was a bit of a godsend. You could get more out of a loaf if you sliced it thin, and I remember her holding a bloomer loaf to her, buttering the end of it and then slicing that end off so thinly. However, Dad told her not to do it like that when she caught herself with the knife. (Modesty forfends that I should tell you what she caught - but I think you can guess!)

Thin sliced bread meant we could afford stuff to go on the sandwich. My favourite was Shippams Salmon and Shrimp paste. (Mmmm I'm salivating as I type this!) If you thinly sliced a cucumber and put the slices three in a row across the bottom slice, then spread the top slice thinly with the fish paste, that made it healthy too!

There was a reason for crusty bread at weekends. Dad would have a doorstop slice of bread (that is, a slice of bread over an inch thick) dipped in the fat of the Sunday roast. Oh yum! The practical reason for that was to take the edge off his appetite so there'd be more to go round. What a good idea!